The latest Climbing and Bouldering News feed from 8a.nu
- Two 8B's and two 8c+'s by Alfons Dornauer (19) May 18, 2013Alfons Dornauer is in great shape having, the last week, done two 8B boulders in Zillertal and yesterday he did Reality Check 8c+ in Schleier Wasserfall. In the combined ranking game, the 19 year old is #8. Today he added The Source 8c+ in Zillertal to his impressive Tick list. "3rd go this year, had to brush the route at first, soo dirty!!! Conditions […]
- Hojer & Wurm take German double May 18, 2013Jan Hojer (6) GER - Juliane Wurm (3) GER Dima Sharafutdinov (5) RUS - Anna Stöhr (1) AUT Kilian Fischhuber (3) AUT - Akiyo Noguchi (6) JPN The fifth Boulder World Cup in Innsbruck was a great show on nice problems. Jan started first as he was sixth in the semifinal and secured the gold even if five climbers remained to try the last boulder. The same thing ha […]
- Ondra on a bolting mission to Flatanger May 17, 2013Adam Ondra is on a two week bolting trip to Flatanger where he during two weeks hopes to bolt another ten routes out of five, which are probably in the 9b range. He brought a 150 m static rope and hopes that this will make it possible to bolt from the top using hooks the master the overhang. If I feel in good shape I hope to also make some FAs but the plan i […]
- No plan - Just climbing: Still most popular May 16, 2013Based on 1 300 unique votes, "How do you climb/train?", we can see that the result is almost identical to a poll in 2009. This is interesting as we during the last few years have seen an increasing number of articles and discussion on 8a on how to train systematically. 09 % I follow a strict programme 41 % A bit of both 50 % No plan - Just climbing […]
- 8B+ FA by Daniel Woods May 16, 2013Daniel Woods has made yet another high quality hard core test piece by The Purge 8B+ in Elkland. The 23-year-old is #1 in the ranking game which he has been for more or less for the last five years. "Dave and I found this prow a while back and Dave gave it a try before departing to Europe. He told me it was really good, so I decided to pay it a visit an […]
- Another 9a by Alexander Megos May 15, 2013Frankenjura.com reports that Alexander has done Pantera 9a on his third go. An interview with his trainer, Patrick Matros, is coming up. Regarding Markus Bock, who has put up 13 out of the 15 9a's in Frankenjura, Pantera is the #12 hardest. Alexander has previously done the two hardest during this spring. © Klettern.de
- Boulder WC 2013 May 14, 2013The fifth stage of the Boulder World Cup takes place this Friday and Saturday in Innsbruck. Here is the current standing. In total it is eight events out of which seven counts. Kilian Fischhuber who has been Top-2 since 2004 is down at #15 and needs probably to finish of with only podiums in order to keep his record straight. 1. Dmitrii Sharafutdinov 281 - A […]
- TNF Kalymnos Festival 10-13 October May 14, 2013[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PkqkhmyQ8hQ&w=370&h=215]
- Corona 9a+ by Alexander Megos May 13, 2013Alexander Megos has repeated Corona 9a+ which FA (2006) Markus Bock ranks #1 hardest in Frankenjura. "It was a nice route. I liked it a lot.", says Alexander. Adam Ondra made the first repeat in 2009. Two months ago, the 19 years old made the first 9a onsight, Estato Critico and a second go ascent of La Rambla 9a+. Training article by Megos trainer […]
- Bolt tightening kits on Kalymnos May 13, 2013Climb Kalymnos reports that you now can find ‘Bolt tightening’ kits at six popular Kalymnos crags. "So next time you see a spinner at one of these crags, look for the re-purposed shoe box; each is clearly labeled, as in the photo, with a ‘box for tightening loose bolts’ sticker and ‘how-to’ instructions. Many thanks go out to Eric Maanders for coming up […]
- McColl & Stöhr win in Slovenia May 12, 20131. Sean McColl 3t5 4b9 - Anna Stöhr 3t6 4b5 2. Jan Hojer 2t8 3b9 - Melissa Le Neve 3t6 4b7 3. Dima Sharafutdinov 2t10 3b8 - Shauna Coxsey 2t3 4b4 Complete results This was the fourth straight win for Anna and the first win for Sean. Throughout the whole competition, Jacky Godoffe and his team made very nice problems out of which 25 of 26 problems were done, […]
- Sport Climbing needs your Olympic vote May 10, 2013Inside The Games has launched a a poll for the 2020 Olympic Games and invites its readers to answer the following question: "Which sport do you think the IOC should vote to include on the Olympic programme for 2020?" After 146 000 votes for the eight candidates 1. Wrestling 39.8 % 2. Squash 30.5 % 3. Karate 24.2 % 6. Sport Climbing 0.5 %
- Almost all against chipping! May 10, 2013Based on 1 600 unique votes to, " What do you think about Chipping?", we can see that the result in 2013 is a notch more negative towards chipping compared to an identical poll in 2009. Yes! = Better Climbing: 6 % (6) OK, but very seldom: 8 % (11) I do not know: 2 % (3) No, but cleaning is OK: 56 % (50) NO! Brush is the limit: 27 % (30)
- Woods video of Bridge of Ashes 8C May 9, 2013Island.io presents a nice video from Daniel Woods second ascent of Dave Graham's Bridge of Ashes 8C in Elkland.
- Boulder WC Slovenia this weekend May 8, 2013The fourth stage of the Boulder World Cup 2013 takes place in Log Dragomer in Slovenia this weekend. The whole event is streamed live. The finals start Sunday 19.00. IFSC video from the last WC in Kitzbühel.