The latest Climbing and Bouldering News feed from 8a.nu
- Five 8A (+) by Nina Williams in Rocklands July 24, 2014Nina Williams has during one week in Rocklands done five 8A's including The Amphitheatre and Tea with Elmarie both contenders also for including a + in the grade. She started her trip by taking down ten 7C+ including flashing Macho King and she is #2 in the ranking game after Alex Puccio. On the picture, Nina does the FA of Del's Lemonade. (c) Kais […]
- Yaniro gives Caballero the story of the world's first 8a July 24, 2014In the fourth episode of Mammut reclimbs the Classic, Tony Yaniro explains the history of his FA The Grand Illusion 8a which he set up 1979 to Mirko Caballero (13). At that time hang-dogging was considered as bad ethics so Tony made a replica practicing at home. [youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PmzjzHjSNPM&w=370&h=215]
- Euro Boulder Cup - L'Argentiere July 24, 201495: Margaux Pucheux FRA - David Firnenburg GER 97: Stasa Gejo SRB - Baptiste Ometz SUI 99: Janja Garnbret SLO - Leo Avezou FRA Complete results Janja Garnbret was the most superior, flashing all eight boulders in the qualification and then all the final problems. Also, Baptiste Ometz won both the qually and the final in great style. Both Janja and Baptiste h […]
- Psicobloc Event in Puente la Reina-Gares (Spain) July 24, 2014brightcove.createExperiences();
- Six 8a+ OS by Matteo Menardi (15) July 22, 2014Matteo Menardi has had a good week in Rodellar having onsigthed six 8a+. During the last few years, we have seen a dramatic redpoint progress by the youngsters but the onsight level has not picked up as much. 8a thinks that it is very important to also have a focus on onsighting.
- Lead Rankings after 3 out of 8 events July 21, 20141. Jakob Schubert 245 -Jain Kim 300 2. Sachi Amma 200 - Magdalena Röck 240 3. Romain Desgranges 186 - Anak Verhoeven 185 It should be noted that just 13 male and 14 female have participated in all the three first events. Complete results
- 9a FA by Alex Megos in Céüse July 21, 2014Alexander Megos reports on FB, " I found another project here in Ceüse which I finally did yesterday! It's an extension to a 7b called "La pinerie" I would suggest 9a for the grade. Happy about anybody repeating and giving his opinion on the grade!" Arnaud Petit says that the name of the project is Et dieu créa la Flemme and that it […]
- Ondra onsights old-school 8c+, Super Plafond July 21, 2014Planetmountain reports that Adam Ondra has onsighted Super Plafond 8c+ in Volx which was set up in 1994 by Jean Baptiste Tribout. This is the first time an old-school 8c+ was onsighted and this is what Adam said, "Well, it's always seemed to me that all the routes I've done that date back to the 90's are really tough for the grade, that […]
- Hukkataival does FA of Bügeleisen Sit Start 8C (+) July 21, 2014
- Briancon Semi/Final results July 20, 2014Due to a severe thunderstorm, the finals in Briancon were cancelled and instead the semi result was counted. Interestingly, Sachi Amma dropped his chalk bag half way up but even so he won fighting with sweaty fingers almost to the top. This was his second victory in the row. The first WC this season he did not participate. Among the female, Jaim Kim took her […]
- 129 participants in Briancon WC - Finals start 21.00 July 19, 2014This weekend, the third stage of the Lead World takes place in Briancon and the good news is that 140 climbers are scheduled to start whichcan be compared to 101 last year. Last week, there were 131 participants in Chamonix which can be compared to 94 last year. The semifinal will be streamed live on Sunday and the finals starts 21.00 for both male and femal […]
- Pura Vida 8A+ by Jule Wurm July 17, 2014Jule Wurm who won one event in the Boulder WC in 2014 has done her third 8A+ the last six months, Pura Vida in Magic Wood. (c) Eddie Fowke "Right after our nationals we drove to Magic Wood to have some good days outside! We were lucky with the weather and today I climbed this cool line! Happy!!
- First 8C by Felipe Camargo July 16, 2014Felipe Camargo has finished a ten year amazing project in Ubatuba calling it Fortaleza and with the 8C suggestion, it is the hardest boulder in South America. "Cant believe its done! the most incredible line...spent years dreaming about this thing!! about the grade, its for sure the hardest boulder I've ever climbed, way harder then all the v14s I […]
- Two 8A+ in a day by Alex Puccio July 16, 2014Alex Puccio continuous to show great form and the day after she had been coaching at Junior Nationals for six days she did two 8A+ in RMNP, Secret Splendour and European Human Being. "Tried it the other day when it was soaked. Still managed to get to the last hold 3 times that day but no send. Went back today and sent first try from the start. Then went […]
- Celedon 9a by Rubén Díaz July 16, 2014Rubén Díaz Torres has made the fourth repeat of Iker Pou's Celedon in Ilarduia confirming the suggested down grade to 9a. Ruben has previously done several 8c+ and also boulders up to 8C.