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  • Southern Smoke 8c+ by Solveig Korherr November 16, 2019
    Solveig Korherr, an active competition climber until 2017 who had a personal best of 8b+ just seven months ago, has done her first 8c+, Southern Smoke in Red River Gorge. The last month she has done 14 routes 8a and harder and she is #1 in the 8a ranking game. (c) Billy Simek How can you explain your great progress in 2019? I have climbed a lot more outdoors […]
  • Two 8C FAs by Adam Ondra November 16, 2019
    Adam Ondra, preparing for the Toulouse Olympic qualification in just two weeks time, reports on Insta that he has had an amazing day doing three FAs; Nunavut 8C, Pučmeloun 8C and Intensitos 8B. "One of the best days bouldering for sure." (c) Jakub Konecny
  • Hydrangea 8C by Akira Waku (48) November 15, 2019
    Akira Waku has done his second 8C, Hydrangea, video, which is a link-up of Babel 8B+ and Hydra 8B. It took the 48-year-old 35 days to link them together after having spent 35 days to do them separately. His body fat was less than 5 % being 172 cm and 53 kilos. Akira started climbing 13 years ago being 35 years. There was no climbing gym in the neighborhood s […]
  • Climb Free 9a and an 8c+ by Alex Khazanov November 13, 2019
    Alex Khazanov, who won one Boulder World Cup last year, has done Inception 8c+ and his second 9a, Climb Free in Nezer Cave. Both routes were bolted by Ofer Blutrich and opened by Adam Ondra and Climb Free as the first 9a in Israel. "Since more than one year I had the focus to try to make it to the Olympic games. A task that proved to be harder than seem […]
  • Kruder, Rubtsov, Lettner and Kaplina to Toulouse? November 13, 2019
    IFSC has published the start list to Toulouse including 20 males and females. Further down, they have listed Jernej Kruder, Aleksei Rubtsov, Sandra Lettner and Iuliia Kaplina as "Subject to IOC confirmation". As have been mentioned before, the reason for this is that the IFSC selection rules was not according to IOC rules, it seems. However, as Kai […]
  • Dreamtime 8C by Jernej Kruder November 12, 2019
    Jernej Kruder, winner of the World Cup in 2018, has done his fourth 8C, Dreamtime in Cresciano. "On the first few sessions already falling from the last move. I can't believe I needed more than 16 days for this one. Low percentage moves made it difficult for me, even though they didn't feel too hard. Dream line *****." The Slovenian got a […]
  • Bokassa's Frigde... 8C (+) by Thomas Lindinger November 12, 2019
    Thomas Lindinger has done the fourth ascent of Toni Lamprecht's Bokassa's Frigde - Assassin Monkey and Man in Kochel. Originally suggested as an 8C+ back in 2009, Lindinger calls it his first 8C. "I started to work Bokassas last autumn when Chris Rauch figured out a shorty beta for the stand. Being able to climb the stand also made me think ab […]
  • Victimes del futur 9a flash by Jakob Schubert November 12, 2019
    Jakob Schubert, who just did his first 9b+, reports on Insta that he has flashed Victimes del Futur in Margalef calling it 8c+/9a. It is a 30 meter 8b+ followed by a 7C+ boulder crux at the top which was put up by Ramon Julian Puigblanque in 2015 as an 8c. Later some holds broke and all repeaters before Schubert have called it 9a. (c) Julia Cassou
  • Gran Paradiso 8B+/8C FA by Giuliano Cameroni November 12, 2019
    Giuliano Cameroni, who previoulsy has done 15 boulders 8C and 8C+, has made the FA of Gran Paradiso 8B+/8C. "Few weeks ago, on the first day in Valle dell’Orco, Bernd Zangerl showed me this incredible project, one of the most unique line I’ve seen on granite: stem gem intro on a super steep dihedral is followed by a very powerful shoulder section that l […]
  • Road to Tokyo #39: Visualization November 11, 2019
  • United SD 8C+ FA by Ryuichi Murai November 11, 2019
    Ryuichi Murai reports on Insta that he has done the FA of United 8C+, which is a five move 8B+ sd into Decided 8B+. "Finally finished off my nemesis project yesterday! Everything worked out well! Perfect temperature, perfect friction, and perfect climbing!(though top out was unstable) The success of Decided SD marks a new level in my climbing. So psyche […]
  • Hydrangea 8C by Akira Waku (48): Interview to come November 11, 2019
  • Squoze 8C by Zach Galla and Drew Ruana November 11, 2019
    Zach Galla and Drew Ruana, who have done most of the WC's this year, have made good use of all their hard training and sent Squoze 8C in Red Rocks. Zach, in the picture, did actually do it on his first try on his second sessions and furthermore, he has done three 8B+' the last three weeks. "I’ve been thinking about climbing outside all competi […]
  • A muerte to the top 8b+ by Alex Totkova (14) November 11, 2019
    Alex Totkova, who did her first 8c this January, has done her third 8b+, A muerte to the top in Vratsa. It did just take her four sessions. Next plan is to go to Italy or Spain and to do a 9a. In August, the 14-year-old Bulgarian got the silver in the Youth WCH in Combined. Earlier this year she has won two European Youth Cups in Bouldering. Noteworthy is al […]
  • Perfecto Mundo 9b+ by Jakob Schubert November 10, 2019
    Jakob Schubert reports on Insta with a great pic by Johannes Mair that he has done the third ascent of Alex Megos' Perfecto Mundo 9b+ in Margalef, which was bolted by Chris Sharma. "What a day, after failing four times after the crux, two days ago even on the very last hard move above the lip it was an incredible relief to clip the chains of this a […]

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