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  • Two more 8B's by Rocklands by Oriane Bertone (14) January 20, 2020
    Oriane Bertone has done her third and fourth 8B in Rocklands; Agamemnon and Ray of Light. "Proud to top this boulder! 4 sessions to send the crouch start version. 5 more sessions to send the sit start one. I had to add a pad to reach the holds, but I didn't want to start without the first movement which is really hard (I was still super stretched!) […]
  • Ciudad de Dios 9a by Gonzalo Larrocha January 20, 2020
    Gonzalo Larrocha has done his 15th 9a, Ciudad de Dios in Santa Linya. The picture shows a new kneebar rest which he found just before the crux. "I spend four seasons on it, I don´t know how many tries I did, perhaps more than one hundred. That´s by far my hardest 9a. There is a sequence of five 5 moves that I only could do some days. That route is a dir […]
  • Eagle 4 9b by Hugo Parmentier January 20, 2020
    Fanatic Climbing reports that Hugo Parmentier has done the first repeat of Adam Ondra's Eagle 4 9b in St-Léger du Ventoux. The 20-year-old, who has eight podiums in IFSC youth comps, has tried it regurarly the last six months. More info to come.
  • Ça chauffe 9a FA by Tanguy Merard (16) January 20, 2020
    Tanguy Merard, who has onsighted 12 8a's, has done his first 9a, Ça chauffe in Seynes. He comments to Fanatic Climbing, "This route required to me a lot of patience and perseverance (something like 10 days), it was a harder process compared to my 2 previous 8c+ sends (“Les grandes bouches du Rhône” and “San Ku Kai”) so I propose 9a." Interesti […]
  • Pachamama 9a+ by Cedric Lachat January 20, 2020
    Fanatic Climbing reports that Cedric Lachat has done Pachamama 9a+ in Oliana. Here is a video from the upper crux. (c) Julia Cassou Cedric has done five 9a+' before and the big plan is to do Mami Chula 9b which is an Adam Ondra link up of Pachamama and Papichulo. "I wanted to try an 9b. After receiving some infos about the routes, I decided to try […]
  • Papichulo 9a+ by David Firnenburg January 19, 2020
    David Firnenburg, #4 in the Combined World Ch. in 2016, has done his third 9a+, Papichulo in Oliana after some 7-8 sessions. "Happy to reward the hard work I've invested with an ascent of this amazing line. Interesting process of projecting including up's and down's, warm weather conditions and bad skin. Kept believing in my abilities and […]
  • The Big Island 8C by Max Deelen January 17, 2020
    Max Deelen has done his first 8C, The Big Island in Fontainbleau. At 193 cm tall, he is probably the second boulderer to have reached 8C after Tony Saxton also 193 cm. "I have been coming to Fontainebleau for 4 years now, and the big island was always a dream project for me. I waited until I felt I was fit enough to try it, and that time came April 2019 […]
  • Dreamtime 8C (B+) by Clément Lechaptois January 17, 2020
    Clément Lechaptois has done Dreamtime in Cresciano giving it a personal 8B+ grade. "Four sessions trying with a crimpy method, just one left crimp and big lock off to a good edge (did the stand like that). In the 5th session I tried the jump with that new position for the hands and did the move first try. Then I never missed it. I readjusted my foot seq […]
  • Light Saber 8A (+) flash by Oriane Bertone (14) January 16, 2020
    Oriane Bertone is like last year fighting high temperatures in Rocklands over 40 degrees. Amazingly she has anyhow done two impressive flashes; Light Saber suggesting it to be 8A and Horizon Gazer 7C+. Her father Stefano gives us further details. "The temperature is increasing. 40° and more in the afternoon the last 3 or 4 days. We only can climb betwee […]
  • Beta testing - Update January 14th January 15, 2020
    We are excited to announce the much-awaited beta release of the new site! 100 people will be selected as beta testers based on geographical area and historic user activity. We may add additional testers at a second stage. Prerequisites for the test: Please only sign-up if you have an existing 8a account and are a regular user. The beta test is schedule […]
  • Chaehyeon Seo (16) #6 in Ice World Cup January 15, 2020
    Chaehyeon Seo, who won the Lead World Cup, was #6 in the Ice World Cup in Cheongsong. Winners were Maria Tolokinina and Maksim Tomilov both from Russia. From the complete results we can also see that Mei Kotake, #11 in the World Lead Ch. was #7. Amazingly, the 16-year-old had just done four days of Ice Climbing practice before the WC. "My focus is on na […]
  • Adam Ondra - How to train Speed January 14, 2020
  • From Dirt Grows The Flowers 8C by Vadim Timonov January 12, 2020
    Vadim Timonov has done his fourth 8C during the last month, From Dirt Grows The Flowers in Chironico and it took him just two session. Equally impressive is the pictured ten min ascent of Boogalagga 8B. In the 8a ranking game, the Russian who got the bronze in the Euorp Championship last year, is #5.
  • Fragile Steps 8B (A+) and Leopard cave 8A+ by Max Bertone (12) January 12, 2020
    Max Bertone, sibling to Oriane appointed as the 8a teenager of 2019, has done Fragile steps in Rocklands. "Second 8A+ for me this year in Rocklands! Last year I was short on the crux. One session to send the boulder this year. I do not have experience in the grade (8B in the topo), but I think that 8A+ fits more." The first 8A+, the 12-year-old, di […]
  • Dreamtime stand 8A+ by Irina Kuzmenko January 11, 2020
    Irina Kuzmenko, who took the bronze in the Euro Ch. last year, has done Dreamtime stand in Cresciano. " Can't believe its happened! Did it from two small crimps without heel hooks. Honestly by my feelings with two crimps this is 8B. It was a super hard journey with blood, tears and up and downs :). It means a lot to me. I can't describe how ha […]

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