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  • The Big Bang 9a by Emma Twyford September 18, 2019
    Emma Twyford, one of the best female multi discipline climbers out there, has done The Big Bang in Lower Pen Trwyn opened by Neil Carlson in 1996 as the first 9a in the UK. Emma did the second repeat of the vertical crimpy route and she comments on DMM Climbing. "It went first go today. Conditions weren't even that good and there was no wind. I thi […]
  • Jungfraumarathon 9a by David Firnenburg September 17, 2019
    David Firnenburg, who has done two 9a+', has done his 13th 9a, Jungfrumarathon in Grimmelwand. "First 9a after my shoulder injury. Felt already possible to send on the first day but needed another two days because of bad beta for me at the crux. Pump of my life clipping the anchor 😀 Thank you Andrea for your support! Such a nice place up here. […]
  • Linda Sjödin from 8A to New Base Line 8B+ September 17, 2019
    Linda Sjödin has made some kind of record in grade progress going from 8A to do New Base Line 8B+ in Magic Wood. Remarkably to say the least as there are less than a dozen female that have reached that grade. Please give us your climbing background? I first started climbing in 2011 at age 19 but quite irregularly. In 2015 I started climbing more consistently […]
  • Legacy 9a FA by Cameroni and Nicole September 16, 2019
    Giuliano Cameroni has made the FA of a Fred Nicole ~10m bolted route in Rocklands naming it Legacy. Gradewise, it is an 8B+ with an 8b finish making it the first 9a in Africa. Fred had been projecting it every year since 2014. In last November he had a hip replacement so this year he was in better shape. "When Giuliano asked me if I mind him trying the […]
  • Ogata skips the new hold and wins September 15, 2019
  • Futaba Ito falls but overtakes Garnbret September 15, 2019
  • Futabo Ito and Yoshiyuki Ogata Adidas Rockstars September 15, 2019
    In the Adidas Rockstars super final, where Janja Garnbret and Futaba Ito climbed on two identical boulders, Ito fell midways but jumped up directly. Garnbret was caught in the middle and could not find the sequence and soon the 17 year old Japanese got to her height and just kept going without hesitating. As Ito hit the buzzer, Garnbret was still hanging in […]
  • Adidas Rockstars - Final 20.15 September 15, 2019
  • Very hard semifinals at Adidas Rockstars September 14, 2019
    In one of the hardest female semi rounds ever, Shauna Coxsey was #5 by just doing one Top and one Zone. Luckily, Janja Garnbret and three Japanese saved the show. Oriane Bertone, 14 years old, was #8 by doing one Top which only was done by Garnbret and Miho Nonaka. Nine girls did not get one zone! Also among the male, one Top was good enough to make it to th […]
  • Arrested Development 9a by Alex Honnold September 13, 2019
    Alex Honnold, who previously has done three 8c+', has done his first 9a, Arrested Development in Mount Charleston. More info to come. In 2017, Alex free soled the 950 m Freerider and the film of it won an the Oscar Documentory award this spring. Then we contacted Alex asking for an interview. "I’m happy to do some kind of interview for 8a at some p […]
  • Finnish Line 8C by Giuliano Cameroni September 13, 2019
    Giuliano Cameroni has done his third 8C in just ten days, Finnish Line in Rocklands and amazingly it took him just three sessions. (c) Lucas Gaona Cifuentes On his Insta he comments, "Absolutely perfect boulder, one of those dream lines that alone are worth traveling for! The ending was pretty epic, I got sweaty and couldn’t see the holds cause of the s […]
  • Japan dominates Adidas Rockstars qually September 13, 2019
    Japan got four male among the Top-7 in the Adidas Rockstars qualification and among the female, two of them did all four boulders on their first go. More info and pictures on Adidas Rockstars. Livstreaming on Saturday; Semifinal 11.00 am - 1.30 pm and Final & Superfinal 8.15 pm - 11.15 pm. Results: Male and Female.
  • New Base Line 8B+ by Linda Sjödin September 13, 2019
    Linda Sjödin has done New Base Line in Magic Wood. The Swede's previous personal best was 8A. Eric Karlsson's video perfectly captures her almost shocking journey to be the 11th woman to reach 8B+. The last two years she has done seven World Cups with #51 as her best.
  • Der Heilige Gral 9a by Vojtěch Trojan September 12, 2019
    Vojtěch Trojan, who just turned 20, has done his second 9a, Der Heilige Gral in Frankenjura. (c) Jakub Konečný "I knew that it was a question of time, because the moves already didn't feel hard for me. I started trying it almost a year ago and it took me almost 30 days to finish it. The main problem was, that it was (more or less) wet all the time. […]
  • L'extremacura 8c by Claudia Ghisolfi September 12, 2019
    Claudia Ghisolfi, copies what her brother did nine years ago by skipping 8b+ and does L'extremacura in Gravere as her first 8c. In the last World Cup in Briancon was #25. In total she has made it to the semifinal 13 times and her best result is #13. (c) Stefano Ghisolfi

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