News

The latest Climbing and Bouldering News feed from 8a.nu

  • Chaehyeon Seo (15) is the best in 2019 July 20, 2019
    Chaehyeon Seo, #3 in the 8a ranking game including Bad Girls Club 9a (8c+) which she did at age 14, is the big sensation in the Lead WC 2019. In her first ever WC she was #2 in both the semi and in the final and in Chamonix she was #1 in both the semi and the final, being 15 years old. Her father Jungkuk is running a gym and her mother is a former World Cup […]
  • Upside-down among the male and Seo wins semi July 19, 2019
    The male semifinal turned out to have had probably the most sensational results ever in a Lead World Cup. Hidemasa Hida was #8 when the five best from the qualification remained but then four of them scored ten to 20 moves lower and Romain Desgranges was one + short to drop him out of the final. It was like humidity hit the wall but that was not the case as […]
  • Briancon semi 19.30 July 19, 2019
    Chaehyon Seo and Natsuki Tanii topped both qualification routes and Janja Garnbret was #3 in the qualifications in Briancon. All six Slovenians female in Top-18! Among the male, Stefano Ghislofi won ahead of Alex Megos and Hannes Puman. Complete results. The semi starts 19.30.
  • Three 8B+' in Rocklands by James Webb July 18, 2019
    James Webb keeps delivering in Rocklands and the last week he has done three 8B+’. The Book Club in the great picture by Hanna Donnelly In total Jimmy has now done 105 boulders 8B+ to 8C+ and he is #1 in the ranking game. He is also a superior #1 counting only flashes with 117 8A and harder although he is knows for often giving personal down grades.
  • Underground 9a by Matteo Menardi July 18, 2019
    Matteo Menardi has done hos sixth 9a, Underground in Arco. (c) Marco Menardi "Last week I came to Torbole on holiday with my family, I also had to take two university exams. Since the conditions were quite good, I decided to try Underground. This unique route is split into two parts: the first features dynamic moves and ends with a "power-hungry […]
  • Direct Hit 8C FA by Daniel Woods July 17, 2019
    Daniel Woods has made another FAs in Brazil, Enter the Wood 8B+ and Direct Hit 8C in Ubatuba. "Left arete of Fortaleza. 7 move v14 (8B+) intro straight into final v11 (8A) sequence of Fortaleza. Amazing movement, powerful, skin friendly." In total, Daniel has now done 26 8C's and 5 8C+'s and in the annual ranking game, he is #2 after Jimm […]
  • Two 8A+' and two 7C+' flash by Katie Lamb July 16, 2019
    Katie Lamb has during the last ten days flashed two 7C+' as well as redpointed two 8A+'. In the picture we see Mind Matters in Guanella Pass and the next week she did No More Greener Grasses in Mt Evans. "Topping out about 10 seconds before a downpour made for a wet, yet spicy time! Arriba! 3rd try from the bottom? Right in my wheelhouse. My f […]
  • Biologico 9a by Davide Picco July 15, 2019
    Davide Picco has done his fourth 9a, Biologico in Arco. Interesting is that the Italian started climbing at 19 and then in just three years he reached 8b and after six years he did his first 9a. "As for the fast progress I've been climbing for 8 years now, during the first period I used to train twice a week, but then the number increased to 6/7 be […]
  • Lead Final Highlights July 15, 2019
  • Biographie 9a+ by Jorge Diaz-rullo (19) July 14, 2019
    Jorge Diaz-rullo has done his fourth 9a+, Biographie in Céüse. Including also one 9b and one 8C boulder etc, the 19 year old is the superior Combined ranking game leader. "For me is a dream the route. Amazing place, experience, process and all the people that support me. At finish, I was working 8 days and I used the other betas for the boulders. THANK […]
  • Ondra wins semi but Garnbret is out July 13, 2019
    Janja Garnbret, who never has missed a Lead final, was cruising as normal but suddenly she just lost control and fell ending #9. Among the male, Adam Ondra did get the highest but also here we saw several big names dropping out like; Stefano Ghisolfi, Romain Desgranges, Sascha Lehmann and Domen Skofic. Complete results The female finals start 20.50 followed […]
  • Ondra creates great ending in Chamonix July 13, 2019
    Adam Ondra was last out and in his normal fast style he executed and once he passed Alex Megos high point he got all the 12 000 spectators behind him. Then he waved for more support and continued towards the top falling but as he said afterwards, there were too small as the route setters possibly wanted to avoid tops as in Villars last week. Ondra will skip […]
  • Chamonix Finals 20.30 July 13, 2019
  • Chaeyon Seo (15) win but route setting mistake again July 13, 2019
    Five female did fall on the same move and and in fact, the Top-3 had also the same score in the semi, so their internal ranking was based on the qualification results. In the end, 15 year old Chaehyon who was #2 last weekend, won as she had the best qualification result topping both routes. It should be mentioned that Jessica Pilz first got a better final sc […]
  • Small Box 8A+ by Isabelle Faus July 13, 2019
    Isabelle Faus has done her 37th 8A+, Small Box in Coal Creek. "It’s a fun climb with a couple hard moves off a bad crimp and a tricky toe hook. Been having a fun summer climbing on this boulder and in the park. I’m psyched to go Africa in a couple weeks, hopefully I can do a few more things in the mountains before we go." The picture is from Spread […]

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