The Beginning Again

| March 8, 2012 | 1 Reply

I start climbing in 1987, I was 23 years old. A close friend of mine Craig Pearson introduced me to a sport that I fell in love with after my first attempt to scale his 20′ high artificial wall built in his front yard. Since that time I have jumped back in and out of the sport due to boredom, family, work or new passions. I am currently on my third comeback into the sport. Back in 2008 I was back in good bouldering form (for me) and was introduced to stand up paddling (SUP). I became enthralled in SUP and put down the shoes for four years and began racing SUP late in 2008. I believe I only climbed one time after the SUP bug caught me.

About five weeks ago the bouldering bug grabbed me again and for those who know me I am all or nothing in anything I do. The paddles are resting and the training has begun for comeback #3. I was never Chris Sharma, but always aspired to be a good as I could be barring any physical and age limitations. During my heyday I could get my way up V9 usually in short order and the hardest ascent was in the V10 range. In today’s standard this does not mean much, but in my bubble it is my short term goal with hopes of achieving greater V’s down the road.

I have always tried to maximize my time and be strategic about how I can come back bigger, faster, stronger. My first task is leaning out. I was 171 lbs six weeks ago. I have dropped about 8 lbs in the last six weeks and strive to get back under 155 lbs, my optimal weight to send. I have also integrated a missing element from prior comebacks, cross training. In the past I just climbed to be a better climber, system training, campusing and doing a bunch of boulder problems that would push myself. I am continuing these measures, but have not added three days of P.I.T. training at the Sport Performance Institute (SPI).

What is P.I.T. training? Performance-Integrative Training (P.I.T.) is a full-body workout experience appropriate for everyone from elite athletes to novice fitness-seekers offered only at SPI.

P.I.T. workouts are performed in circuit-style routines that combine multi-joint strengthtraining exercises with aerobic/cardio conditioning, functional skill development and more. Workouts are uniquely designed to maximize cardio/strength gains, prevent overtraining and injury, and aid in weight loss. Workouts are 60 minutes. They begin with a functional warmup, a “main workout” of 15-35 minutes (time based or set/rep based) and conclude with a refreshing cool down.

I have been training at SPI for two years and I truly believe I am in the best shape ever at age 47.9. This was always a missing link for me. This cross training has allowed me to focus on areas of weakness and make me a better well rounded athlete.

I am now spending three days a week at the Truhold Bouldering gym in Mission Viejo, California as a course setter. I am trying to be smart and not injure myself going to hard. I have been spending a bunch of time system training and focusing on movement and gradually increasing my bouldering fitness, forearm endurance and increasing finger strength. In addition, I have begun some top secret hand power training techniques to see if I can accelerate my come back and allow myself new heights in my boulder performance.

I hope to be back in top fitness by summer (Tram season). I will keep you all up to date on my progress.

As my good friend Rob Mulligan once said “Just Shut Up and Climb”

Me during comeback #1

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Category: Blog, Scott's Journey

About the Author ()

Just a bouldering junkie looking for great problems that inspire me to keep pushing myself and just get out and climb. * Disclaimer of risk/liability * *Please note any articles or posts related to fitness are for your entertainment. If you intend to take on a new fitness program, we strongly suggest you consult a fitness professional.

Comments (1)

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  1. Travkat says:

    I. Love you Sanchez! I think I was holding the boom for this send in Hueco. I’m backing some v5-6 here and there but the new little one will keep me out of top form for a bit.

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