El Cariso Bouldering – First Ascents

Hit the Ortega’s with my crew Sunday. It has been at least 15 years since I would scour this place for something to climb with my friend Craig Pearson. This area we climbed was new to me and Kevin introduced me to a couple of cool lines. I almost flashed Washed Out (2nd try), probably the best line, in this area. The line actually continues up about 30′ on 5.7 slab or you can step off the boulder to the right (I choose to walk off). Off Camber has potential to be V10+++ with a direct line going straight out,, way too burly for me. The boulder is actually about 60+ degrees overhanging, the video does not demonstrate just how steep the block is. The right exit variation is fun. It is like a gym problem. Lost and losing is a good line, did not get too much time to play on it, but hopefully next Sunday will get my revenge.

Washed Out – V6
Off Camber – V5
El Chorizo – V4
Lost and Losing – V7

El Cariso Boulders were developed in the 90s by Dean Goolsby, Brady Willitson (spelled Willison I believe), and other Orange County locals after a fire burned the thick Manzanita that covered the boulders. Alot of the tall lines being plucked for top rope or short bolted routes, as well as other miscellaneous boulder problems in the area. But lately there has been interest in the area from other climbers and with the nice cool temps in the winter, we ventured out to see if we could find some new inspiring lines. The rock is high quality granite, though most areas tend to be featureless and some imagination is required. To the best of my knowledge and consulting with Dean Goolsby, these are all first ascents. We’ve cleaned all the lines, breaking off holds that we hoped to be good and sometimes resulting in heartbreak if the line didnt go. Orange County isnt known for its climbing, with only two areas being developed, but hopefully more and more boulders will be found.

K. Riley

Tags: boulder, climbing, Dean Goolsby, Featured, Orange County, ortega

Category: Bouldering Areas, California, United States