System & Finger Training

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I have finally finished my system wall. I started this training years ago when I read an article by the Huber brothers on how they used this method to help them increase their strength, power and body tension. I have found over the years body tension is key to improvement. The more you have the better. I started from scratch as I have lost much of this strength. I will increase the difficulty by making the hands and feet worse over time.

This exercise is structured, in my case I have seven different grip types and do sets repeating each hand position on my new 47 degree wall. The workout today was as follows:

1. 3-finger pockets – there are six of these holds. I start from the right hand move left then up and right and so on to the top of the wall. I repeat this six times alternating the start from the right to the left and back. I hold each hand position for two seconds trying to focus on maintain my body tension. Your arm should be straight, right hand on and left foot on (left arm off and right foot flagged against the wall). Lock and hold the position, then move left and up the wall. Your feet should feel like they are pulling you in and your scapula should feel like it is engaged (open up your chest). This is a total of 36 moves for the entire set.
2. Crimps – These you do locked off. Step as high as you can hold the lock and proceed to the next hold. Six sets.
3. Pinches –  Sames as step one
4. Slopers – sames as step one, but after each 2-second hold move to the next hold cut your feet and bring them back on the wall. This movement should be more dynamic and cause you to reengage the core to develop more tension and control on bad holds on steep angles.

Since this was my first work out of this type for a few years I stopped. Other items I will train as I get fitter are Gastons, micro crimps and two finger pockets.

I then moved on to a Chris Parson’s hand power workout.

Here is what I finished with today:

1. Six sets of 10 second dead hangs with a straight arm, 2-minute rest between hangs
2. Six sets of 10 second dead hangs with a slightly bent arm,  less then 90 degrees, 2-minute rest between hangs
3. Six sets of 10 second dead hangs with a bent arm,  more then 90 degrees, 2-minute rest between hangs

That was enough, I am tired now. Back at it tomorrow for some general bouldering at the former Truhold gym, now Hanger 18 MV.

Tags: Chris Parson, Pinches Sames, training, workout

Category: Blog, Training