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Archive for January, 2013

Man Down!

Man Down!

| January 17, 2013 | Reply

Well what do I say “do as I say ,not as I do”. Yesterday I took a good friend bouldering at Truhold. He had only climbed once in a gym years ago, so I was just getting him on a circuit of V0-V1’s. Super mellow day just giving him instruction and showing him some movement […]

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Jon Glassberg – Boulder Canyon – The Right (V13)

Jon Glassberg – Boulder Canyon – The Right (V13)

| January 17, 2013 | Reply

Jon Glassberg climbing Davey Jones Footlocker (V8) and making the second ascent of The Right (Via Freedom) (V13) in Boulder Canyon, Colorado.

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Rest Day!

Rest Day!

| January 16, 2013 | Reply

Well a rest day for me at least. I am taking a good friend/client bouldering today, so I will be climbing but most likely more instruction then any training. If you feel up for more work this week try this one: Work for 30 minutes: 30sec dip lockout hold on rings 30sec wall-sit 30sec each […]

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Bouldering in Albarracin

Bouldering in Albarracin

| January 16, 2013 | Reply

EUTSIZAK presents albarraCHRISTMAS 2012, a short film about Bouldering in Albarracin during the Christmas of 2012.

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My Plan for Tuesday

My Plan for Tuesday

| January 15, 2013 | Reply

I trained last night at Truhold after my lunch workout at P.I.T. I felt gased from the noon class, but was determined to get some work in, so I just start climbing a bunch of V0-V3’s. Once I warmed up I moved on to sending some V4-V5’s and doing five second locks on V4-V5’s to failure. I […]

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El Cariso Bouldering – First Ascents

El Cariso Bouldering – First Ascents

| January 15, 2013 | Reply

Hit the Ortega’s with my crew Sunday. It has been at least 15 years since I would scour this place for something to climb with my friend Craig Pearson. This area we climbed was new to me and Kevin introduced me to a couple of cool lines. I almost flashed Washed Out (2nd try), probably […]

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The Mental Approach to Sending by the Legend Jerry Moffatt

The Mental Approach to Sending by the Legend Jerry Moffatt

| January 15, 2013 | Reply

One of the masters of the gritstones technical demanding climbing offers his best advice. Your mental approach to a problem is key to your success, see what one of the world’s best does to prepare be each ascent.

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The General’s Apprentice by Mike Turner

The General’s Apprentice by Mike Turner

| January 14, 2013 | Reply

First Ascent of a new climb in Joshua Tree. No idea how hard, but once it gets some traffic should probably settle in the V6 range…? M.Turner Nice job Mike! Looks like a good problem.

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1-14-13 Workout

1-14-13 Workout

| January 14, 2013 | 1 Reply

This is my plan for today and should be a good one from our friends at Performance Integrative Training (P.I.T.). Post your times! MONDAY 1-14-13 60sec plank/ 30sec superman hold 25ea side leg raises. 35 Abmat situps or can openers 100 bicycle crunches 100 jump rope singles 3 rounds 5 chin ups/pullups 10 atomic pushups […]

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Kilian Fischhuber sending Air Star (8B) –  Updated

Kilian Fischhuber sending Air Star (8B) – Updated

| January 13, 2013 | Reply

It does not appear to be done with the Pogo technique, but who cares. What a cool problem. A clip from Chuck Fryberger’s AMAZING film Core illustrating what happens when bouldering’s finest– Nalle Hukkataival, Keven Jorgeson, Kilian Fischhuber, et al. work collectively to FA the dramatic Air Star (8B) in the Rocklands, South Africa’s bouldering […]

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